Rosalind Creasy is a garden and food writer, photographer, and landscape designer with a passion for beautiful vegetables and earth-friendly gardening. She first introduced us to edible landscaping and a more thoughtful approach to digging and tending the soil in 1982, with her first book, The Complete Book of Edible Landscaping. This updated version is a labor of love and encompasses Creasy’s lifelong passion for gardening, and accessibility to fresh, good-tasting food. Creasy’s strong focus on the environment guides the reader toward a sustainable approach to home landscaping. In addition to providing organic and environmentally friendly practices to control pests and diseases, Creasy encourages gardeners to grow disease-resistant plants and maintain healthy soil as an alternative to commercial insecticides and fungicides. Rosalind discusses the importance of soil nutrients, amendments, fertilizers and mulches, providing valuable information for both new and seasoned gardeners.
Educating ourselves and future generations toward a more sustainable approach to landscaping will help fulfill the new vision for healthy food, healthy gardens, and a healthy planet.
This book emphasizes landscape design, as five chapters are devoted to the subject. Included are design basics as well as ideas for incorporating herbs, vegetables, fruits, berries, and nuts. The second half of the book contains a comprehensive Encyclopedia of Edibles which provides horticultural and growing details, culinary uses, sources, and recommended varieties. This is definitely a book to dream over, allowing the pictures to provide inspiration while you fantasize about warmer days to come.
While I’m not interested in converting my entire gardening space into edible plants, Creasy certainly delivers when it comes to providing ideas for implementing more edibles to your current design. Whether you are looking to incorporate more edibles in containers, add some raised garden beds, or you dream on a larger level, you will certainly find helpful advice for any landscape.
Since the houseplants have all been safely tucked inside for the past few months, they are happy to finally be getting the attention they deserve. I must admit that they are somewhat neglected during the warmer months when I can be tending to perennials or veggies. But, I thought it would be nice over the course of a few posts to highlight some favorites of mine in a collection that continues to grow (can you ever have enough houseplants, really?).
I suffer from this internal need to visit a greenhouse (often) during the cold winter months which invariably results in a little something stashed in the passenger seat hidden beneath layers upon layers of paper bags – so hopefully it won’t go into some sort of panic being exposed to the cold temperatures and drop all of its leaves before I can even get the thing in the house.
Among my favorite houseplants are orchids. And, my most recent addition is a Brassia, or spider orchid. Before you start running away, Brassia orchids are considered to be one of the easiest to grow, with their long, spidery petals which can reach up to 10 inches in length. Being a cousin to Oncidiums, spider orchids are epiphytes, meaning that in their natural habitat (Central and South America and the Wests Indies) they anchor themselves to the bark of trees. Spider orchids are often perfumed, with a very light, pleasant fragrance. Brassia orchids have water-storing pseudobulbs, and make new growths alongside the older ones, kind of like walking along. You can divide them between the growths to make new plants, though it is best to have at least 3 pseudobulbs per plant.
Light: Brassia can be grown in any light except for northern exposure. The leaves will be yellow-green or grassy-green, not dark green, when it is receiving the best light. Keep in mind that in their natural habitat they are generally underneath the tree canopy, so they receive morning or late afternoon sun. The sun is more intense, however, in their native climate. You may have to move your orchid around a few times to determine where it receives the best light.
Water/Fertilizer: Spider orchids prefer not to completely dry out. If possible, it is best to water in the morning to avoid the rotting of pseudobulbs. Wet the potting mix first with a good 15 second shower at the sink, so that the water is draining out the bottom of the pot. Then, fertilize weakly, weekly – with 1/4 tsp. 10-10-10 in a gallon of water – so that there is barely a tinge of blue to the water. Flush the plant once a month with plain water and no fertilizer. This will help to wash away any fertilizer salts that have accumulated.
Temperature: Spider orchids prefer intermediate to warm daytime temperatures of 60-85 degrees, and winter nights 55-65 degrees. Most orchids like a 10-degree change in temperature between day and night. Brassia orchids love humidity, so growing plants together, or a pebble tray with water may be necessary if you have a relatively dry house. Misting will also increase humidity, and as with watering, it is best to do this in the morning. If using a pebble tray, make sure that the plant sits above the water line, and avoid letting the plant sit in water.
What they love: Summer plants outdoors, in dappled indirect sunlight. Be sure to give them a good, thorough inspection for insects prior to returning them to the indoors – once night temperatures fall to 50 degrees. The rain water and sunshine will make them happy, and you will be rewarded with beautiful flowers.
What they hate: Overwatering – roots will become soft and soggy, and will ultimately result in collapse of the plant. Overfeeding – more is not better, and will also cause root damage. Too much sun – often results in scorching, or yellowing of leaves.
Repotting: Spider orchids like to be repotted every couple years, or when the potting medium begins to decompose. Repotting my orchids was a bit nerve-racking my first attempt, but it is really not difficult, and all of them even survived the ordeal. I plan to devote a post to repotting orchids in the near future.
When shopping for orchids, pick out a plant that is of good size, displaying new growth, and that looks to have a nice healthy root system. I tend to look for plants that have the biggest, gnarliest, tangled up mess of roots I can find. You want to look for roots that are firm with green tips, not brown and spongy to the touch. For detailed information on a variety of orchids, I encourage you to visit the website of The American Orchid Society.
Where in the world is the Green Mountain Gardener? Well, up to her armpits in textbooks and lecture notes, with a brain that is dizzy with terminology and a schedule that has her running this way and that…. and sometimes doing really strange things… like putting face soap in her hair… while reciting definitions in the shower, and trying to remember how to spell things like Aggregatibacter actinomycetemcomitans. But, just for the record, I have not abandoned my blog. It has been very hard to put it on the back burner, though necessary these past several months. Currently, I am happy to be enjoying a holiday break, and look forward to beginning my final semester this month. And, I hope to sneak in some blogging as well. I have truly missed my fellow bloggers, though I will have you know that I enjoy visiting when I can, just silently.
It is really fairly easy to grow amaryllis and sweet-talk them into re-blooming year after year. I generally order my amaryllis bulbs in fall, and believe it worth the time and effort to seek out healthy bulbs offered by local nurseries or trusted mail-order sources. For online sources, try McClure and Zimmerman or Brent and Becky’s bulbs. Store the bulbs in a cool dark place, such as a paper bag, at temperatures around 50-55 degrees. After the holidays, I pull mine out of storage, placing them in a clay pot that is no more than a couple inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. Also, make sure that that the upper 1/3 of the bulb is above the soil line. Use a good potting soil, and enrich with bulb food if desired. Water lightly, taking care to keep water from falling over the exposed portion of the bulb, and place in a warm (~65 degrees F) and bright location. Don’t water them again until the flower bud and stalk appear, usually within 4-6 weeks. If after two weeks you aren’t seeing any action, water lightly once more. Once the bloom gets going, begin watering and fertilizing regularly. You should fertilize every 2-4 weeks with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. Once the flowers fade, cut off the stalk near the neck of the bulb and wait for the foliage to emerge. Continue watering/fertilizing regularly. Keep in mind that as with all bulbs, overwatering will cause the bulb to rot. An amaryllis can be placed either in a sunny window, or, when all threat of frost has passed, the pots can be moved outdoors to a warm, semi-shaded position, so that the leaves are able to take up energy from the sunlight. You can gradually increase their sun exposure as they get acclimated to being outdoors. In late September, begin withholding water to encourage dormancy. Amaryllis can be stubborn about entering dormancy – but be firm and don’t give them any water. You may also cut the foliage at this time and then withhold water. Once the foliage dies or has been cut back, and before frost arrives, store the dry, potted bulbs in the same cool, dark place where you first kept them. You may store them in the pot, or remove them and wrap in newspaper. Store them for 8-10 weeks before bringing them out to begin the whole cycle again.
Note: If you have forced your amaryllis in water, this will completely exhaust the bulb. In this case it is best to compost the entire plant.
While it is delightful to virtually visit all of the bloggers who I have come to know better over the last couple of years, it is an absolute pleasure to meet them in person. Last week I had the opportunity to meet up with Carol of Flower Hill Farm and Jean of Jean’s Garden. The three of us met at Flower Hill Farm where we were greeted by the lovely Carol, in addition to a breathtaking view. The surrounding scenery forces one to slow down, relax, and appreciate all of the beauty that surrounds us. The lupine and iris were strutting their stuff, and the climbing hydrangea seemed out of a fairy tale as they swirled around the magnificent maple trees. Carol served an outdoor lunch as the scent of the surrounding Heliotrope made its way over to greet us. As we made our way along the grassy paths of Flower Hill Farm, we found that at each vantage point you can turn in any direction and see something in the distance that catches your eye – beckoning you to come and take a closer look. After lunch, we made our way to The Botanic Garden at Smith College as well as the Capen Garden – a quiet, tucked-away garden with a rustic pergola surrounded by climbing roses. The following day we visited the gardens of the Emily Dickinson museum followed by lunch, a visit to Annie’s Nursery as well as Bay State Nursery and then a visit to Nasami Farm – owned and operated by the New England Wildflower Society. The society propagates and grows over 450 species of native plants, and produces over 75,000 plants annually to be sold. They work hard to protect our native flora and are recognized as one of the nation’s leading plant conservation organizations. They have a wonderful variety of plants for sale, and I fell in love with the Stylophorum diphyllum or wood poppy, with its sweet yellow flowers. It is great for lighting up shaded areas, and requires very little care.
The two-day visit seemed to have a common theme, and that was of majestic trees. There are three magnificent maples that line that path to Carol’s garden, and several wonderful trees that grace her garden. The Japanese Maple and Japanese Tree Lilac particularly grabbed my attention. In addition, she has several magnolias, lilacs and crabapples, which must be an absolute delight when in bloom. On the second day of our visit we woke to a mystical fog adding a magical element to the landscape…
A visit to the Botanic Garden at Smith College unlocked a landscape I recalled from photographs I had seen on Carol’s blog. What a treat to see it in person. I have been dreaming of seeing it again in the fall…
A Camperdown Elm makes for a giant natural umbrella - the perfect resting place for a picnic or perhaps just to sit and daydream.
The beautiful trunk of a Ginkgo tree. These majestic trees predate conifers and even insects, as no modern insects eat them. Ginkgos seem to have a unique ability to survive, and several trees lived on after the atomic blast at Hiroshima, even putting out new leaves the following year. One of these trees was only about a kilometer away from the epicenter of the explosion and the temple behind it was totally destroyed. A new temple has since been built around the tree.
We were all struck by the beauty of the Kousa Dogwood in the background, which was so full of flowers that you could hardly see the leaves.
Jean, Carol and I standing at the base of the Ginkgo - I believe it took the three of us standing side by side to fully cover its enormous trunk
In addition to all of the wonderful trees, the roses will continue to stand out in my memory as they were at their peak. This little tucked-away garden was full of them, dazzling our senses as we made our way through the rustic pergola…
On to the home and gardens of Emily Dickinson…
Would it interest the children to know that crocuses come up, in the garden off the dining-room, and a fuchsia, that pussy partook, mistaking it for strawberries? And that we have primroses, like the little pattern sent in last winter’s note, and heliotrope by the aprons full – the mountain-colored one – and a jasmine bud, you know the little odor like Lubin – and gilliflowers, magenta, and few mignonette, and sweet alyssum bountiful, and carnation buds? –From Letters of Emily Dickinson
We had a wonderful time strolling through the nurseries, and nobody went home empty-handed. Carol and Jean display their new collection of plants…
Thank you so much, Carol, for having us. This truly was a wonderful retreat, and I so enjoyed seeing your gardens in person. It was lovely to meet you both!
A visit to the UVM Hort. Farm proved to be well worth the trip, as lilacs are in their prime during the month of May. Hundreds upon thousands of cobs of bloom dressed in shades of purple, pink, and rich cream were admired. Walking down a path jam-packed with lilacs provides the senses with an overload of their lovely fragrance. Lilacs are such a part of New England’s heritage that many believe them to be native, though the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, originated in eastern Europe. This species and hybrids of it were so frequently grown and selected by French nurserymen that France became synonymous with fine lilacs; we know them today as “French hybrids.” The term now commonly includes lilacs of that type even though they may not have been bred in France. In 1767, Thomas Jefferson recorded his method of planting lilacs in his garden book, and on March 3, 1785, George Washington noted that he had transplanted existing lilacs in his garden. The oldest living lilacs in North America may be those at the Governor Wentworth estate in Portsmouth, N.H., believed to have been planted around 1750.
Lilacs grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. Lilacs grown in partial sun or shade will not flower well. The shrubs may take three to four years to establish themselves in a new site, but once established they can live for centuries. Soil pH (alkalinity or acidity of the soil) may affect the plant’s growth. Lilacs do well in a slightly acid to alkaline soil. New England soils are often very acidic and may require some modification for best lilac growth.
To ensure abundant flowering, cut off all spent blossoms each year and prune the flowering stem back to a set of leaves, thus preventing seed formation. If this is not done, good flowering years may be followed by bad years. Since flower buds are formed the summer before they bloom, it is best to prune right after flowering, preferably before the 1st of July.
One of my favorite varieties 'Sensation'
Resident lilacs here in the garden fill the house with their amazing scent
In the month of March we begin the shift of seasons. Closing the door on winter and opening another to spring. During the winter months, we have enjoyed the quiet grace of the scenery displayed in shades of black and white. Color is often captured only in fleeting glimpses. In Northern Vermont, March brings forth only the earliest and most subtle signs of spring that will soon unlock a very different landscape. I can’t help but begin to look for these signs of rebirth, those that we have been missing such as the earliest of blooms, and the return of thunderstorms, Witch Hazel, snowdrops, pussy willows, honeybees, and even mud season. I anticipate the arrival of my favorite season, though there are many things that I will miss about winter. The blanket of snow makes everything appear fresh and clean. Trees are exposed and we have the opportunity to study their gnarled and bare branches. Sun and shadows are much more prominent in the landscape and often go unnoticed during the warmer months when our eyes are diverted by all of the surrounding color. But, the melting snow brings the arrival of those blissful earthy smells. Here in the north, we so appreciate these very subtle promises of the new season, and know that we will soon enjoy the sounds of songbirds and peepers, orchestrating the return of warmer and longer days. It seems as if almost overnight the trees begin to bud, and the grass is green once again. I find myself paying frequent visits to the window and the garden, looking for any subtle changes. New leaves are poking out from the soil around the Phlox, and the Peony buds remind me that the flowers will soon return. We wait with much anticipation for the early and vivid colors that will soon return, those offered by the daffodils, crocus and early tulips. Spring is once again upon us, and it is a time to appreciate all of the many changes taking place. I hope these final days of winter hold many promises of the new season in your garden.
Spring offerings from a Hellebore planted last year…
Bloom Day is celebrated on the 15th of every month. For a look at what is blooming in gardens around the world, visit Carol of May Dreams Gardens.
A little over a year ago I contacted a garden coach to work with me on the layout of the front garden. Instead of plunging forward, I spent some time gaining focus on what I hoped to achieve with my garden. As I searched through a considerable amount of design ideas, there was one that I kept coming back to. My garden was to be a habitat for birds, pollinators, and wildlife. A garden which brought me back to days growing up near a natural meadow, a place where we spent much of our time as kids. Thoughts swirled around a meadow garden that was filled with grasses, colors, and textures. One that incorporated some native plants which would benefit both the land and the wildlife. For a while, I entertained the thought of creating the design myself. I found myself full of ideas, but the one thing I was having trouble with was how to pull all of my ideas together. I was having difficulty seeing the big picture, and wished for a fresh pair of eyes. Someone who would be looking at the land for the first time, and perhaps view the layout differently than I. That’s when my thoughts went back to Judith Irven, the garden coach I had contacted several months before. Judith is a Master Gardener who teaches the design portion of the MG program offered by UVM. She offers coaching sessions and workshops assisting with plant selection, design, or a complete landscape plan. Using her extensive knowledge and expertise, Judith works with clients to develop a plan which incorporates their ideas and personality. Browsing through her blog and website which contain many pictures of her garden in Southern Vermont, her passion and talent are apparent.
I emailed Judith and explained my hopes for this front garden, and included some photographs. We began with a simple sketch of the front and side of the property, and Judith asked me to obtain some preliminary measurements. She informed me that most of what we needed to do could be done through email correspondence, though for the final portion of the design process I was welcome to come and meet with her. While not everyone may want to work on a design electronically, this method worked out very well for me due to a very busy school schedule and the fact that Judith and I live on opposite ends of the state. Judith is more than willing to meet with clients in person, though this electronic correspondence was what worked best for me. I sent Judith a list of grasses, perennials, shrubs and trees that I wanted to incorporate into this front design. Judith spent some time looking over everything, asked me to obtain a few more measurements, and a few days later I received a beautiful design plan in the mail.
Grasses certainly dominate the plan, though the planting will not be a a true meadow which would approach a ratio of 90%/10% grasses to forbs. Also on the plan the plants are shown in recognizable groups; whereas in an actual meadow there would be more co-mingling of grasses and forbs. The plan would be better referred to as a meadow-inspired design. I was delighted to see the incorporation of some grassy paths, a seating area, some stone steps, and a split rail fence which will define the garden space as well as add some winter interest. Judith’s design focuses on strong summer color as well as good fall and winter presence. Some of the beauties that will be gracing the planting include: Amelanchier canadensis or Serviceberry, with beautiful early spring blooms and fall berries for the birds, Cotinus ‘Grace’ and ‘Royal Purple’, two of my favorite Smokebush species, Spirea ‘Ogon’ with beautiful chartreuse summer color followed by a brilliant salmon-orange for fall, some native Virburnum, a few of my beloved lilacs, and of course a variety of grasses and perennials. The design will be incorporated over a period of years. This spring I plan to get started on a small section – the areas closest to the garage and front porch. I am so thankful for Judith’s help in making what was a source of uncertainty into something exciting. In my efforts to come up with a plan on my own, I had hesitations that my lack of design skills would result in my never really being satisfied with it. I longed for a garden that I could sit in and enjoy without thinking about what was wrong with it and what needed changing, and feeling unsure about how to change it. I am so looking forward to getting my hands in the dirt this spring…
I have been inspired by many of you this year to begin a color journal, and I thought it appropriate to begin with my favorite color… green. It is not a primary color, but one which evolves from the mixing of yellowand blue. On the color wheel the complementary color to green is red. Many creatures including frogs, lizards, insects, fish, and birds appear green because of a mixture of layers of blue and green in their skin. And, many creatures have adapted to their green environment by taking on a green hue which acts as camouflage. By far the largest contributor to green in nature is chlorophyll, the chemical by which plants photosynthesize. The color green is used worldwide to represent safety. In Japan, it is regarded as the color of eternal life. And, green is the color of Venus, the Roman goddess of love and beauty. Green ribbons have been used by a range of environmental groups to symbolize organ donation and transplant, solidarity with Chechnya, and support of farmers in America. And, we cannot help but love the muppet who uses green as his signature color, Kermit the Frog. Green evokes compassion, nurturance, fertility, rebirth, renewal, acceptance, growth, gratefulness, restoration, and meditation. It also makes us think about being kind to the environment. I am definitely feeling grateful for the color green this winter, as I am missing the lazy swaying of green leaves and the rhythmic movement of green grass. As I was browsing through my photographs, I was happy to find that there is definitely no shortage of green going on here.
Shades of green dominate the scene during a visit to the greenhouses of the Montreal Botanical Garden:
Today we celebrate the birthday of the great Johnny Cash, what would have been his 78th. See him here, as he sings “40 Shades of Green.”
Spending time in the garden contributes to our enjoyment and appreciation of nature. How we choose to garden can have a significant impact on our local and regional environment. A sustainable garden is one that thrives with minimal inputs of labor, water, fertilizer and pesticides. This may also mean altering your perception of the perfect garden. Lawns that are uniformly a deep, lush green and weed-free, plants with no insect damage, and fruits that are unblemished may prove desirable, but these do not come without a hefty price from added chemicals. Sustainable gardens provide a balance between input and outcome. Starting out with good soil will help to foster healthy plants without the need for added chemicals. Having your soil tested is a relatively easy process. In Vermont, a sample kit can be obtained through the UVM Extension offices, your sample mailed, and for fees ranging from $8 to $12, your home grounds will be tested for pH, organic matter, available P, Mg, K, Ca, and Al; micronutrients (iron, manganese, copper, boron and sodium); effective CEC; and testing includes fertility recommendations.
There are many streams that run near our property, and many creatures that depend on them for clean drinking water. The use of synthetic fertilizers is a major source of water pollution, not to mention the pollution that is created by trucking the stuff in from who knows where. Sustainable gardening requires us to use organic compost and mulch from local sources, if not compost made at home. I learned the hard way that in attempts to do good deeds by purchasing local compost, one must exercise caution. I purchased a few yards of compost from a local source, only to find that it had not been heated thoroughly to kill weeds. I soon had a garden with more weeds than I could keep up with. I have since come to rely on a local product called MooDoo, a compost made in Middlebury, VT. Their compost is weed-free, they make their own energy from cow manure, and their products are consistently tested for quality. Compost improves soil fertility and drainage, and composting at home can help to reduce the burden that garden waste adds to landfills. While I perfect my composting skills, I rely on MooDoo to help enrich my soil, though I am certain that there are several local resources in which to obtain quality compost.
In Vermont we are blessed with frequent rain showers during the summer, though there are brief periods where we can experience drought. Mulch helps to reduce water evaporation and also helps to suppress weeds. Suppressing weeds eliminates the need to use herbicides and reduces the competition for water between weeds and desired plants. A mulch layer can also minimize fluctuations in soil temperature and reduce root damage from temperature extremes. As organic mulches such as bark chips and leaves decompose, they add organic matter to the soil and help to improve soil fertility.
Pesticides kill beneficial insects, in addition to the birds and other wildlife that feed on these affected insects. Many pesticides that are still readily available today can potentially harm us in addition to our pets, and many of the long-term health effects are unknown. Pesticide residues get into the food chain, leach into groundwater and run off into our streams and rivers. For serious infestations, there are less toxic products available, and one must consider if a chemical is absolutely necessary to treat the problem. There are three products which I have used, primarily for indoor plants. A safe choice is that of sticky papers and sticky traps. BioNeem and Safer’s soap are considered less toxic, though I do not feel comfortable using them outdoors. For outdoor pests, the less toxic the better. I know of many gardeners who use Horticultural oil with an active ingredient of highly refined paraffinic oil or petroleum oil. While this is a chemical, it is considered less toxic than many other products available. Again, consideration of the severity of the infestation is necessary prior to applying any chemical. A better option is to begin by choosing plants that are more resistant to damaging insects. UVM has a lot of information available which lists various species of shrubs, plants, and trees noting those that are more resistant to infestation.
If all gardeners, both new and experienced, continue to adopt and refine the principles of sustainable gardening they will enhance the environment for people, plants, and wildlife. I like to think that our efforts will help future generations enjoy the pleasures of gardening as much as we do.
This post has been written as part of the Garden Bloggers Sustainable Living Project, hosted by Jan at Thanks for Today. It is in recognition of Earth Day, which is April 22, 2010. The project includes a Give Away, and submissions are due by March 1st. I hope you will join us!
I would like to extend a big, warm thank you to everyone for participating in my drawing, and your thoughtful words which helped to make this Blogiversary so special. It is my pleasure to announce and offer my CONGRATULATIONS to Frances of Fairegarden, who has been selected to win a copy of Lives of the Trees, An Uncommon History by Diana Wells. Frances, if you would be so kind as to contact me with your mailing information via the link at the top of my blog, I will get this out in the mail to you asap.
I feel as though I must offer my sincere apologies for my lack of blog activity over the past couple weeks. While I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to return to school at this stage in my life, I am enrolled in a fairly rigorous program which at times does not afford the luxury of free time. I am looking forward to catching up with all of you over the next week, while I enjoy a winter break.
May your hearts be filled with love this Valentine’s Day!!
Rosalind Creasy is a garden and food writer, photographer, and landscape designer with a passion for beautiful vegetables and earth-friendly gardening. She first introduced us to edible landscaping and a more thoughtful approach to digging and tending the soil in 1982, with her first book, The Complete Book of Edible Landscaping. This updated version is a labor of love and encompasses Creasy’s lifelong passion for gardening, and accessibility to fresh, good-tasting food. Creasy’s strong focus on the environment guides the reader toward a sustainable approach to home landscaping. In addition to providing organic and environmentally friendly practices to control pests and diseases, Creasy encourages gardeners to grow disease-resistant plants and maintain healthy soil as an alternative to commercial insecticides and fungicides. Rosalind discusses the importance of soil nutrients, amendments, fertilizers and mulches, providing valuable information for both new and seasoned gardeners.
